Ambrette, also called musk mallow, is a plant-based musk obtained from the seeds of Abelmoschus moschatus, a hibiscus relative. Its oil smells soft, musky and slightly fruity, with pear-like and winey facets, and it is one of the few natural musks that perfumers can use today.

What does Ambrette (Musk Mallow) smell like?

Ambrette seed smells warm, velvety and musky, with a fruity pear or brandy-like note, a faint floral softness and a subtle skin-like warmth. It is lighter and more vegetal than animal musk and more complex than most single synthetic musks. The fresh oil can have an oily, fatty edge that softens with ageing and rectification.

Where Ambrette (Musk Mallow) comes from

Abelmoschus moschatus is a tropical plant grown for its small kidney-shaped seeds. After harvest the seeds are dried, crushed and steam-distilled, or extracted with solvents or CO2 to produce oils, butters or absolutes. Producers include India, Ecuador and Madagascar, among others.

• Also known as: Ambrette seed, musk mallow, musk seed, Abelmoschus moschatus
• Fragrance family: Musky
• Type: Natural
• Main origins: India, Ecuador, Madagascar
• How it's obtained: Steam distillation, CO2 or solvent extraction of the seeds
• Key aroma molecules: Ambrettolide, farnesyl acetate, farnesol

Ambrette (Musk Mallow) in perfume history

Ambrette seeds have long been used in India and Asia as a perfume and flavouring. In Western perfumery they became valued as a vegetal musk and fixative, especially after the discovery that their main odour molecule, ambrettolide, is a macrocyclic musk. The seed oil should not be confused with musk ambrette, an unrelated nitro musk synthesised in the late 19th century and later prohibited.

Ambrette (Musk Mallow) in modern perfumery

Natural ambrette is a luxury ingredient due to its low yield and high cost, and it is used mostly in fine and niche perfumery. Its natural origin makes it attractive for brands seeking plant-based musks.

How Ambrette (Musk Mallow) wears and what it pairs with

Ambrette adds warmth and softness from the heart to the base, with good longevity. It pairs beautifully with iris, rose, jasmine, pear, sandalwood, vanilla, musk and amber.

Safety and regulation

Ambrette seed oil is distinct from the synthetic musk ambrette, which is prohibited by IFRA. Natural ambrette seed oil is permitted within standard safety guidelines.