Ambrettolide is a macrocyclic musk molecule originally identified in ambrette seed oil. It smells soft, rich and musky with fruity, pear-like and slightly floral nuances, and is prized for giving fragrances a velvety, radiant and very long-lasting musk effect.

What does Ambrettolide smell like?

Ambrettolide smells warm and powdery-musky, with a natural, fruity pear or lychee-like note and hints of rose and ambrette seed. It is more complex and luminous than many polycyclic musks and softer than animal musk. Even in small amounts it adds diffusion and a skin-like glow that lingers for many hours.

Where Ambrettolide comes from

Ambrettolide occurs naturally in the seeds of Abelmoschus moschatus (musk mallow), but only in small amounts. The commercial material is produced by chemical synthesis. It is a large lactone ring molecule belonging to the macrocyclic musk family.

• Also known as: Oxacycloheptadec-10-en-2-one, ambrette lactone
• Fragrance family: Musky
• Type: Synthetic (nature-identical)
• How it's obtained: Chemical synthesis; occurs naturally in ambrette seed oil
• Key aroma molecules: Ambrettolide (CAS 28645-51-4)

Ambrettolide in perfume history

Ambrettolide was identified in ambrette seed oil in the 1920s, around the time Leopold Ruzicka's work revealed the large ring structures of natural musks. It became a benchmark macrocyclic musk, though for many years its cost limited its use to fine fragrance.

Ambrettolide in modern perfumery

Ambrettolide is valued as a biodegradable macrocyclic musk and a premium ingredient in fine fragrance and high-end personal care. It is often used in combination with other musks to boost their radiance and fullness. Its natural occurrence and favourable environmental profile support its popularity.

How Ambrettolide wears and what it pairs with

Ambrettolide is a base note with exceptional longevity. It pairs with iris, rose, pear, jasmine, sandalwood, vanilla, amber and other musks.

Safety and regulation

Ambrettolide is reported to be readily biodegradable and is not listed as a declarable EU fragrance allergen. It is distinct from the prohibited nitro musk musk ambrette.