Angelica

Angelica is an aromatic, green-musky note from the roots and seeds of Angelica archangelica, a tall umbelliferous plant of northern Europe. In perfume it smells herbal, peppery and earthy, with a sweet, musky depth, and it is used to add freshness and a subtle musk to florals, colognes and green compositions.

What does Angelica smell like?

Angelica root oil has a complex profile: a bright, peppery-herbal opening from terpenes such as alpha-pinene and beta-phellandrene, a green, celery-like facet and a soft musky warmth. The musky character comes partly from macrocyclic lactones, which occur naturally in the oil at low levels. Angelica seed oil is lighter and fresher, with less earthiness and a more peppery, citrus-herbal lift.

Angelica is fresher and greener than carrot seed, which shares its family, and more musky than coriander or caraway.

Where Angelica comes from

Angelica grows in cool, damp regions of northern Europe and Asia. The roots are harvested, dried and steam-distilled, and the seeds are distilled separately. The root oil is costly because of low yields.

  • Also known as: Garden angelica, Archangel, Angélique, Angelica archangelica
  • Fragrance family: Aromatic green / musky
  • Type: Natural
  • Main origins: France, Belgium, Hungary, Scandinavia
  • How it's obtained: Steam distillation of roots or seeds
  • Key aroma molecules: Alpha-pinene, beta-phellandrene, limonene, macrocyclic lactones such as pentadecanolide

Angelica in perfume history

Angelica has a long tradition in European herbalism and in liqueurs such as Chartreuse and Bénédictine, as well as in gin, where it is a common botanical. In perfumery it has long been used in colognes and chypres. Frédéric Malle's Angéliques sous la Pluie (2000), composed by Jean-Claude Ellena, made it a lead note in a light, rainy composition.

Angelica in modern perfumery

Angelica is valued for its natural musky facet and its ability to lift florals and greens. It appears in niche colognes, iris compositions and modern green scents, and it is a favourite of perfumers who want a musky effect from a botanical.

How Angelica wears and what it pairs with

Angelica is a top-to-heart note with a musky trail that lingers. It pairs well with bergamot, juniper, iris, rose, galbanum, vetiver, pepper and musk.

Safety and regulation

Angelica root oil contains furocoumarins and is phototoxic, so its use in leave-on skin products is restricted under IFRA Standards.