Bergamot is a bright, slightly bitter citrus note pressed from the peel of a small Italian fruit, Citrus bergamia. Softer and more floral than lemon, with a tea-like, gently peppery edge, it is one of the most widely used top notes in perfumery and the backbone of classic colognes, chypres and modern fresh fragrances.

What does Bergamot smell like?

Bergamot smells like citrus seen through a softer lens. The first impression is zesty and sparkling, but where lemon is sharp and orange is sweet, bergamot is faintly bitter, green and noticeably floral. A lavender-like, almost peppery facet comes from its high linalyl acetate and linalool content, and it is the scent of Earl Grey tea.

Where Bergamot comes from

Bergamot oil is cold-pressed from the peel of a sour citrus generally thought to be a hybrid of bitter orange and lemon. Around 90% of world supply comes from a narrow coastal strip of Reggio Calabria, southern Italy.

• Also known as: Bergamot orange, Bergamotto
• Fragrance family: Citrus
• Type: Natural (synthetic reconstructions are also common)
• Main origins: Calabria, Italy; smaller volumes from Ivory Coast, Argentina and Brazil
• How it's obtained: Cold expression of the peel; a furocoumarin-free (FCF) grade is made by further processing
• Key aroma molecules: Limonene, linalyl acetate, linalool

Bergamot in perfume history

Bergamot's route into perfumery runs through Calabria, where cultivation for its oil became established in the 18th century, and through Cologne, where Italian-born perfumer Johann Maria Farina launched his Eau de Cologne in 1709. In 1917 François Coty's Chypre built an entirely new fragrance family on the contrast between bergamot on top and oakmoss and labdanum below. Guerlain's Shalimar (1925) set a generous bergamot opening against vanilla.

Bergamot in modern perfumery

Bergamot remains one of the most-used natural materials in fine fragrance. It is a signature of the modern fresh masculine style built on bergamot, ambroxan and woods. Supply is concentrated on one short stretch of coastline, so climate change and water scarcity are real concerns. It is often supported by cheaper, more stable reconstructions built from linalyl acetate and linalool.

How Bergamot wears and what it pairs with

As a top note, bergamot is the first thing you smell and usually fades within the first 30 to 60 minutes, handing over to the heart of the fragrance. Classic partners are neroli, petitgrain and lavender in colognes; oakmoss, patchouli and labdanum in chypres; and ambroxan, pepper and vetiver in modern fresh scents.

Fragrances featuring Bergamot

• Farina Eau de Cologne (1709)
• Acqua di Parma Colonia (1916)
• Guerlain Shalimar (1925)
• Dior Sauvage (2015)

Safety and regulation

Cold-pressed bergamot naturally contains furocoumarins such as bergapten, which can make skin more sensitive to sunlight. IFRA sets limits on these compounds in leave-on products, which is why perfumers usually use FCF (furocoumarin-free) bergamot. Linalool and limonene are listed fragrance allergens that must be declared on EU labels above set thresholds.