Brazilian Rosewood in perfume usually means bois de rose oil, distilled from the wood of Aniba rosaeodora, an Amazonian tree of the laurel family. Its scent is soft, floral and woody, with a rosy, lightly spicy sweetness that comes from a very high linalool content, and it is one of the classic materials of 20th-century perfumery.

What does Brazilian Rosewood smell like?

The oil smells gentle and rounded: a fresh, floral lift close to lily of the valley and bergamot, a sweet, faintly peppery rose facet, and a smooth, pale woodiness underneath. It is far lighter and more floral than the dense, resinous timber effect of palisander, and less creamy than sandalwood. Ho wood oil, from a linalool-rich form of Cinnamomum camphora, is the usual substitute and smells similar but flatter.

Where Brazilian Rosewood comes from

It is important not to confuse this note with the Dalbergia nigra timber also called Brazilian rosewood, which is prized for furniture and guitars and is not distilled for perfume. Aniba rosaeodora grows across the Amazon basin, mainly in the Brazilian states of Amazonas, Pará and Amapá. The wood yields only about 1% oil, traditionally distilled at mobile riverside or raft-mounted stills, which meant felling whole trees.

• Also known as: Bois de rose, rosewood oil, pau-rosa, Aniba rosaeodora
• Fragrance family: Woody, floral
• Type: Natural (commonly replaced by ho wood oil or synthetic linalool)
• Main origins: Brazilian Amazon
• How it's obtained: Steam distillation of wood chips; some producers also distil leaves and twigs
• Key aroma molecules: Linalool (the dominant component)

Brazilian Rosewood in perfume history

Bois de rose oil was first produced in French Guiana in the late 19th century before production moved to Brazil, which has supplied almost all of it since the 1960s. For decades it was a cheap source of natural linalool for perfume and soap. Destructive harvesting caused wild populations to collapse, and logged areas have regenerated poorly.

Brazilian Rosewood in modern perfumery

The tree is now rated Endangered by the IUCN and appears on Brazil's official list of threatened flora. Natural oil is rare and costly, and is said to be about as difficult to trade legally as ivory, so most perfumes that list the note rely on synthetic linalool, ho wood or a rosewood accord. It still appears in niche note lists: Comme des Garçons Series 3 Incense: Avignon (2002) names Brazilian rosewood among its base notes.

How Brazilian Rosewood wears and what it pairs with

It is a heart note with moderate staying power that softens florals and bridges them to woods. Good partners are rose, jasmine, neroli, bergamot, lavender, iris, sandalwood and cedar.

Safety and regulation

Aniba rosaeodora wood and essential oil are listed in CITES Appendix II, so international trade requires permits. Linalool is an EU-declarable fragrance allergen.