Chamomile

Chamomile is a soft, herbal floral note from the daisy-like flowers of Roman chamomile (Chamaemelum nobile) or German chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla). It sits between the aromatic and floral families and smells warm, apple-like and hay-sweet, with a gentle bitterness that recalls herbal tea.

What does Chamomile smell like?

Roman chamomile oil is fruity and delicate, with a pronounced apple-like, slightly boozy sweetness from esters such as isobutyl angelate. German chamomile oil, deep blue from chamazulene, is more herbaceous, bitter and tea-like, with a hay and tobacco facet. Moroccan "chamomile" (Cladanthus mixtus, formerly Ormenis) is a different plant with a greener, balsamic profile. In finished perfumes, chamomile often reads as comforting and herbal rather than overtly floral.

Where Chamomile comes from

Both main species are cultivated for their flowers, which are steam-distilled. Absolutes are also made for perfumery, giving a richer, more honeyed impression.

  • Also known as: Roman chamomile, English chamomile, German chamomile, blue chamomile
  • Fragrance family: Aromatic / Floral
  • Type: Natural
  • Main origins: England, France, Hungary, Egypt, Bulgaria
  • How it's obtained: Steam distillation of flowers; solvent extraction for absolutes
  • Key aroma molecules: Isobutyl angelate, butyl angelate (Roman); chamazulene, bisabolol oxides (German)

Chamomile in perfume history

Chamomile has been used for scented waters, herbal preparations and household remedies in Europe since antiquity. In perfumery it has long been a discreet supporting material in fougères and herbal colognes rather than a headline note.

Chamomile in modern perfumery

Chamomile has gained visibility through the wider fashion for tea, herbal and "comfort" scents, where it lends a calm, sunlit character. It appears in niche and designer fragrances, as well as bath and body lines.

How Chamomile wears and what it pairs with

Chamomile works mainly as a heart note with moderate longevity. It pairs well with lavender, bergamot, honey, hay, tea, iris, sandalwood and musk.

Safety and regulation

Chamomile oils can contain small amounts of linalool, limonene and other EU-declarable allergens above labelling thresholds.