Cognac in perfume is a boozy note that evokes the aroma of French grape brandy aged in oak. It is built from an accord, often anchored by cognac oil, a natural material distilled from wine lees, and it smells fruity, winey and warm, with oily, green-grape richness and a smooth, woody-sweet finish.

What does Cognac smell like?

A cognac note smells of ripe grapes and dried fruit, with a soft, oily winey tone, a green, almost leafy sharpness and a mellow oak-and-vanilla warmth. The winey facet comes largely from fatty esters such as ethyl octanoate and ethyl decanoate. Green cognac oil is fresher and sharper, while white cognac oil, which is refined, is softer and rounder. Compared with rum, cognac is less sugary and more fruit-and-wood; compared with whisky, it is smoother and less smoky.

How perfumers create Cognac

Perfumers typically use cognac oil, obtained by steam-distilling the lees (the yeast sediment left after wine fermentation), as the core. They add fruity esters, dried-fruit notes such as plum or fig, oak and cedar, vanilla, tonka and sometimes davana for a boozy, fruity lift.

• Also known as: Cognac oil, Wine lees oil, Brandy accord
• Fragrance family: Gourmand, Amber
• Type: Accord (created by the perfumer), often with natural cognac oil
• How it's obtained: Steam distillation of wine lees (cognac oil) plus a blended accord
• Key aroma molecules: Ethyl octanoate, ethyl decanoate, isoamyl acetate

Cognac in perfume history

Cognac oil is a long-established perfumery material, used in small amounts in classic fragrances to add a winey, fruity nuance. Cognac as a headline note is far more recent. Kilian's Angels' Share (2020), by perfumer Benoist Lapouza, made the note fashionable, taking its name from the portion of spirit that evaporates from casks as they age.

Cognac in modern perfumery

Cognac notes are now common in ambery and gourmand fragrances, especially in niche and luxury designer lines. They pair naturally with cinnamon, praline and tonka to create warm, festive compositions. The note refers only to aroma.

How Cognac wears and what it pairs with

Cognac usually appears in the top and heart and fades into a warm, woody base. It adds richness and an adult sweetness. Classic pairings include cinnamon, tonka, praline, vanilla, oak, sandalwood, tobacco and leather.

Fragrances featuring Cognac

• Kilian Angels' Share (2020)