Fenugreek is a warm, sweet spice note from the seeds of Trigonella foenum-graecum, a legume. In perfume it smells of maple syrup, curry and celery, with a nutty, caramel-like depth, and it is used in small doses to add a gourmand, slightly savoury warmth to ambers, tobacco and leather fragrances.

What does Fenugreek smell like?

Fenugreek's defining molecule is sotolon, a compound with an intense maple syrup and burnt sugar smell that remains detectable at extraordinarily low concentrations. Around it sit spicy, celery-like and hay-like facets. In small amounts it gives a rich, caramelised warmth; at higher levels it becomes savoury and reminiscent of curry powder.

Fenugreek absolute and CO2 extracts are dark, sticky and very powerful. They differ from immortelle, which also has a maple-like facet, by being more edible and less herbal.

Where Fenugreek comes from

Fenugreek is an annual plant native to the Mediterranean and western Asia. Its small, hard seeds are dried, and perfumery extracts are made by solvent or CO2 extraction.

• Also known as: Fenugrec, Methi, Greek hay
• Fragrance family: Warm spicy / gourmand
• Type: Natural (sotolon is also available as a synthetic)
• Main origins: India, Egypt, Morocco
• How it's obtained: Solvent or CO2 extraction of dried seeds
• Key aroma molecules: Sotolon

Fenugreek in perfume history

Fenugreek has been used as a spice and animal fodder since antiquity; its Latin name means Greek hay. Its perfumery role is modest and mostly modern, tied to the development of gourmand and tobacco accords.

Fenugreek in modern perfumery

Perfumers use fenugreek to create maple, caramel and tobacco effects, and to give depth to leather and amber bases. It is a specialist material rather than a headline note.

How Fenugreek wears and what it pairs with

Fenugreek is a heart-to-base note with excellent tenacity. It pairs well with tobacco, immortelle, vanilla, benzoin, coffee, cedar, leather and tonka bean.