Fig

Fig is a green, milky and gently sweet note that captures both the ripe fruit and the leaves and wood of the fig tree, Ficus carica. A modern creation of perfumers rather than a natural extract, it belongs to the green and fruity families and has become a classic of Mediterranean-inspired fragrance.

What does Fig smell like?

A fig accord smells like a sunny Mediterranean garden: creamy, milky sap, soft sweet fruit, bitter green leaves and a dry, woody warmth from the bark. Its creaminess sets it apart from juicier fruits, and many people notice a slightly coconut-like or lactonic facet. Some interpretations stress the lush green leaves, others the jammy, honeyed ripe fruit or dried fig.

How perfumers create Fig

Fig is built from contrasting materials. Stemone, a green molecule from Givaudan, supplies the bitter, leafy character; lactones such as gamma-octalactone bring creamy, coconut-like sweetness; cis-3-hexenol and other green notes add freshness; and coumarin and cedar-type woods give warmth. Damascones and certain fruity esters can suggest dried or jammy fig. Natural fig leaf absolute is no longer usable in fragrance, so the accord relies on synthetics.

Also known as: Figue, common fig, Ficus carica
Fragrance family: Green, fruity
Type: Accord (created by the perfumer)
How it's obtained: Built from green molecules, lactones and woods
Key aroma molecules: Stemone, gamma-octalactone, cis-3-hexenol, coumarin

Fig in perfume history

The fig is one of the earliest cultivated plants, but it was barely used in perfumery until the 1990s. Olivia Giacobetti's Premier Figuier for L'Artisan Parfumeur (1994) is widely considered the first fragrance centred on fig, and her Philosykos for Diptyque (1996) became the benchmark fig accord that many later perfumes follow.

Fig in modern perfumery

Fig is now a staple of niche and designer perfumery, used in green colognes, woody unisex scents and gourmand interpretations. Contemporary perfumers explore its facets separately, focusing on the leaf, milk, wood or dried fruit.

How Fig wears and what it pairs with

Fig is a heart note that lasts well thanks to its woody, lactonic base. It pairs well with coconut, cedar, bergamot, blackcurrant, green tea, sandalwood, vetiver and musk.