Heliotrope is a sweet, powdery floral note inspired by the flowers of Heliotropium arborescens, a South American shrub. It smells of almond, vanilla and cherry with a soft, powdery floral heart, and in perfume it is recreated mainly with heliotropin, a synthetic aroma molecule.

What does Heliotrope smell like?

Heliotrope smells soft and comforting, like almond paste, vanilla and cherry pie, with a powdery, slightly floral heart and a creamy texture. It is sweeter and more almond-like than violet and less rosy than peony. The note is often described as nostalgic, because it evokes old-fashioned powders and cosmetics.

Where Heliotrope comes from

Heliotrope is native to Peru and was introduced to European gardens in the 18th century. The flower's scent is difficult to extract, and natural extracts have never been produced in significant quantities. Instead, perfumers use heliotropin, also known as piperonal, which has a sweet, almond-vanilla character that suggests the flower.

• Also known as: Cherry pie plant, Heliotropium arborescens
• Fragrance family: Floral (powdery, gourmand)
• Type: Accord (created by the perfumer)
• How it's obtained: Recreated from heliotropin and other aroma chemicals
• Key aroma molecules: Heliotropin (piperonal), vanillin, coumarin

Heliotrope in perfume history

Heliotropin began to be used in perfumery in the early 1880s, and it helped shape the powdery floral style of the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Guerlain's Après l'Ondée (1906) and L'Heure Bleue (1912) are classic examples, pairing heliotrope with violet, iris and anise-like notes for a soft, melancholy effect.

Heliotrope in modern perfumery

Heliotrope remains popular in powdery, gourmand and vintage-inspired fragrances. Perfumers use it to add softness and sweetness, often alongside almond, vanilla, tonka and iris. It is also common in cosmetics and toiletries, where its comforting scent is appreciated.

How Heliotrope wears and what it pairs with

Heliotrope is a heart-to-base note with good longevity and a soft, powdery presence. It pairs with vanilla, almond, tonka bean, iris, violet, musk, sandalwood and anise.