Honey

Honey is a warm, sweet, golden note that recreates the smell of honey and honeycomb, from light and floral to deep, waxy and animalic. It belongs to the gourmand and amber families. Because honey itself is not distilled for perfume, the note is built from beeswax absolute and honey-like aroma chemicals, and it is prized for adding richness and sensuality to florals, tobacco and ambers.

What does Honey smell like?

Honey in perfume is sweeter and more textured than sugar. It has a floral, pollen-like facet, a waxy, candle-like warmth from beeswax, and sometimes a dark, slightly animalic edge that can read as sensual or, in excess, as sweaty or urinous. That edge comes from phenylacetic acid and its esters, which are the backbone of most honey accords. Beeswax absolute adds a softer, hay-like, tobacco-tinged sweetness.

Where Honey comes from

The key natural material is beeswax absolute, extracted with solvents from cleaned beeswax, the comb produced by honeybees (Apis mellifera). It is expensive and used in small amounts. Most honey notes are accords that combine it with synthetics.

  • Also known as: Miel, beeswax, honeycomb
  • Fragrance family: Gourmand / Amber
  • Type: Natural and synthetic
  • Main origins: Beeswax absolute is made in Europe and elsewhere from beekeeping wax
  • How it's obtained: Solvent extraction of beeswax; accords from synthetic aroma chemicals
  • Key aroma molecules: Phenylacetic acid, methyl phenylacetate, ethyl phenylacetate, phenylethyl phenylacetate

Honey in perfume history

Honey has a long history in aromatic preparations. Ancient Egyptian kyphi, a temple incense, combined honey with wine, raisins and resins. In modern perfumery, honey facets have long played a supporting role in orientals and floral bouquets, while Serge Lutens Miel de Bois (1995) made honey the unashamed star, famously polarising people with its animalic intensity.

Honey in modern perfumery

Honey is a popular note in niche perfumery and increasingly in mainstream gourmands. It works as a bridge between floral and gourmand styles and is particularly associated with tobacco, where it enhances the leaf's natural hay-and-dried-fruit sweetness. Perfumers must dose it carefully, because the same materials that give warmth can become heavy or cloying.

How Honey wears and what it pairs with

Honey is a heart-to-base note with good longevity and a close, warm sillage. It pairs with tobacco, rose and orange blossom, immortelle, labdanum and benzoin, oud and woods, and spices such as cinnamon.

Fragrances featuring Honey

  • Serge Lutens Miel de Bois (1995)
  • Serge Lutens Chergui (2001)
  • Kilian Back to Black (2009)