Iris is a powdery, earthy and elegant floral note obtained not from the flower but from the aged rhizomes of certain iris species. Classed as floral-powdery, it smells of cool, buttery violet, soft suede and fine face powder, and it is among the most expensive materials in perfumery.

What does Iris smell like?

Iris in perfume has a cool, restrained elegance. It smells powdery and buttery, with a violet-like floral side, a slightly woody and earthy root note and an almost cold, metallic feel that perfumers often describe as grey or silvery. Many people also detect hints of carrot, cocoa or suede. It is drier and more complex than violet, and less sweet, so it tends to feel sophisticated rather than romantic.

Where Iris comes from

Although the name comes from the flower, the scent comes from the rhizomes of Iris pallida and Iris germanica. The rhizomes are harvested after around three years, peeled, dried and stored for several years to allow irones, the key scent molecules, to form. They are then ground and distilled to produce orris butter, which can be refined into an absolute.

• Also known as: Orris, orris root, iris butter, Iris pallida, Iris germanica
• Fragrance family: Floral (powdery)
• Type: Natural and synthetic
• Main origins: Tuscany, Italy; Morocco; China; France
• How it's obtained: Steam distillation of aged, powdered rhizomes (orris butter); further processing gives orris absolute
• Key aroma molecules: Alpha-irone, gamma-irone, myristic acid (in the butter)

Iris in perfume history

Iris root has been used for scent since antiquity; the Egyptians, Greeks and Romans used orris in perfumes and cosmetics. Florence became the main centre of production in the Renaissance, and the iris remains a symbol of the city. In the 20th century, iris became a signature of luxurious, elegant perfumery, from Chanel No. 19 (1971) to Serge Lutens's Iris Silver Mist (1994) and Dior Homme (2005), which made it fashionable in men's fragrance.

Iris in modern perfumery

Iris is a symbol of prestige in perfumery, and many houses create iris-led fragrances for their luxury lines. The high price of orris butter means perfumers often combine small amounts of natural material with synthetic irones and ionones. Iris is also popular in skin-scent and suede styles, where its soft, powdery depth is central.

How Iris wears and what it pairs with

Iris is a heart-to-base note with excellent longevity and a soft, close-to-the-skin projection. It pairs with violet, rose, vetiver, sandalwood, leather, musk, vanilla and carrot seed.

Fragrances featuring Iris

• Chanel No. 19 (1971)
• Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist (1994)
• Dior Homme (2005)
• Prada Infusion d'Iris (2007)