Italian Iris is iris material produced from Iris pallida grown in Italy, above all in Tuscany, and it is widely considered the finest orris in the world. As a powdery floral note, it smells of soft violet, buttery earth and cool suede, with an especially rich and refined character compared with other origins.

What does Italian Iris smell like?

Italian iris butter is warm, creamy and softly powdery, with a pronounced violet-like floral note, a slightly woody and earthy depth and a delicate carrot-like facet. Perfumers often describe it as rounder and more luminous than Moroccan or Chinese material. This is partly attributed to the high irone content that the pale Italian iris can develop when its rhizomes are aged patiently, which gives the butter both its power and its finesse.

Where Italian Iris comes from

Italian iris is grown mainly on the hills around Florence, in the Chianti area and the upper Valdarno. Rhizomes stay in the ground for around three years, are lifted, peeled by hand and dried, then stored for several years before distillation. Only a tiny amount of butter is obtained from each tonne of dried roots.

• Also known as: Florentine iris, Iris pallida, giaggiolo
• Fragrance family: Floral (powdery)
• Type: Natural
• Main origins: Tuscany, Italy
• How it's obtained: Steam distillation of aged, powdered rhizomes (orris butter), sometimes refined to an absolute
• Key aroma molecules: Alpha-irone, gamma-irone

Italian Iris in perfume history

Iris cultivation around Florence dates back to the Middle Ages, and the city's emblem, the red giglio, is traditionally interpreted as an iris despite resembling a lily. In the 19th and early 20th centuries Tuscany supplied large quantities of dried orris to perfume houses across Europe, and Italian iris became the standard for quality.

Italian Iris in modern perfumery

Italian production has fallen sharply over the last century, and farmers now often diversify with olive oil and wine. Supply is small and prices extremely high, so Italian iris butter is used mainly in luxury and prestige fragrances. Several perfume houses and suppliers now partner directly with Tuscan growers to keep the tradition alive.

How Italian Iris wears and what it pairs with

Italian iris is a heart-to-base note with long longevity and a soft, intimate projection. It pairs with rose, violet, vetiver, sandalwood, musk, leather, amber and pink pepper.