Liatris, in perfumery, usually refers to deertongue, a plant from the south-eastern United States whose dried leaves give a sweet, hay-like, vanilla-coumarin scent. Although listed among florals, it is really a warm, herbaceous-ambery note, used to add tobacco, hay and almond-like sweetness to fragrances.
What does Liatris smell like?
Deertongue smells like sweet dried hay and tonka bean, with vanilla, almond and a slightly herbaceous, tobacco-like warmth. The dominant molecule is coumarin, which makes up a large part of the absolute and gives it its sweet, powdery character. It is greener and more herbal than tonka bean, and less creamy than vanilla.
Where Liatris comes from
The plant is known botanically as Carphephorus odoratissimus, formerly Liatris odoratissima or Trilisa odoratissima, and is native to the pine savannahs of the south-eastern United States. Its leaves are collected and sun-dried, which intensifies their sweet scent, then extracted with solvents to produce a concrete and then an absolute. The name Liatris is also used for a separate group of ornamental plants known as blazing stars, which are not a perfume source.
- Also known as: Deertongue, deer tongue, vanilla leaf, liatrix
- Fragrance family: Amber / Aromatic (coumarinic)
- Type: Natural
- Main origins: South-eastern United States
- How it's obtained: Solvent extraction of dried leaves (concrete, then absolute)
- Key aroma molecules: Coumarin, dihydrocoumarin, benzyl benzoate
Liatris in perfume history
Deertongue leaves were historically used to flavour and scent tobacco, which is why the note is closely associated with pipe and cigarette aromas. In perfumery, liatrix absolute was valued as a fixative and as a natural source of coumarin for fougère and amber compositions.
Liatris in modern perfumery
Liatrix absolute is now rare and expensive, and its use is restricted because of its high coumarin content. Perfumers often use it in small amounts to add a natural, hay-like sweetness to tobacco, fougère and amber fragrances, or replace it with synthetic coumarin and other hay-like materials.
How Liatris wears and what it pairs with
Liatris is a base note with good longevity and a warm, enveloping presence. It pairs with tobacco, tonka bean, vanilla, lavender, hay, oakmoss, benzoin and leather.
Safety and regulation
Liatrix absolute is restricted by IFRA, and its main component, coumarin, is an EU-declarable allergen that must be listed on labels above set thresholds.
