Mastic, known in French perfumery as lentisque, is a fresh, resinous note from Pistacia lentiscus, an evergreen shrub of the Mediterranean. Clean, piney and gently balsamic, it can come from the famous resin "tears" of the Greek island of Chios or from the plant's aromatic leaves and twigs, and it belongs to the resinous and aromatic families.
What does Mastic (Lentisque) smell like?
Mastic resin smells bright and clean: pine needles, fresh wood, a hint of green mango and a light, dry balsamic sweetness. It is often described as the freshest resin in perfumery, lacking the smoke of frankincense and the vanilla sweetness of benzoin. Lentisque extracts from the leaves and twigs tend to be greener, more herbal and slightly spicier, with a warm, ambery drydown that works well in chypres and Mediterranean compositions.
Where Mastic (Lentisque) comes from
Mastic gum is harvested in southern Chios, where growers make small cuts in the bark in summer and collect the resin that drips and hardens into translucent tears. The resin is distilled into oil or extracted into a resinoid. Chios mastic has EU Protected Designation of Origin status, and its cultivation know-how was added to UNESCO's intangible heritage list in 2014. Lentisque leaf and twig extracts come from wild shrubs elsewhere around the Mediterranean.
- Also known as: Lentisk, Lentisque, Mastiha, Chios mastic
- Fragrance family: Resinous, aromatic
- Type: Natural
- Main origins: Chios, Greece (resin); wider Mediterranean (leaves)
- How it's obtained: Tapping the bark for resin, then distillation or extraction; distillation or extraction of leaves and twigs
- Key aroma molecules: Alpha-pinene, myrcene, beta-pinene
Mastic (Lentisque) in perfume history
Chios mastic has been harvested for more than two thousand years. It was chewed as a breath freshener, used in wine and cooking, and valued by the Genoese and Ottoman rulers of the island, who controlled its trade. In perfumery, lentisque became a quiet component of Mediterranean and chypre-style formulas, adding a green, resinous freshness.
Mastic (Lentisque) in modern perfumery
Mastic has grown in popularity as perfumers explore Mediterranean themes and cleaner resinous notes. It appears in niche colognes, fig and seaside compositions and incense fragrances. Supply of Chios resin is limited and relatively costly, while leaf extracts are more readily available.
How Mastic (Lentisque) wears and what it pairs with
Mastic acts as a heart note with good persistence, drying to a soft resinous wood. It pairs with bergamot, lemon, fig leaf, cypress, lavender, incense, labdanum and cedar.
