Palisander Rosewood is a woody note inspired by palisander, the traditional trade name for richly figured rosewoods of the genus Dalbergia, such as Brazilian and Indian rosewood. In perfume it is usually a composed accord with a warm, sweet, slightly spicy and resinous wood smell, since these protected timbers are not distilled for fragrance oil.

What does Palisander Rosewood smell like?

Freshly worked palisander has a sweet, dense, almost fruity woodiness with rosy and spicy undertones, which is where the name rosewood comes from. In perfume the note is rendered as a polished, dark and slightly ambery wood with hints of spice, resin and leather, warmer than cedar and less creamy than sandalwood. It should not be confused with bois de rose (Aniba rosaeodora), an Amazonian tree whose essential oil smells fresh and floral because it is rich in linalool.

How perfumers create Palisander Rosewood

Perfumers build palisander from woody and ambery materials: cedarwood and its derivatives for structure, sandalwood molecules for smoothness, guaiac wood or cypriol for smoky depth, and touches of spice, rose and resin. Some add a small amount of linalool-rich oil to hint at the rosy side.

• Also known as: Palissandre, Rio rosewood, Indian rosewood
• Fragrance family: Woody
• Type: Accord (created by the perfumer)

Palisander Rosewood in perfume history

Palisander was valued for centuries in cabinetmaking and musical instruments. Brazilian rosewood (Dalbergia nigra) became so over-exploited that it was placed on CITES Appendix I in 1992, which effectively bans commercial international trade. In fragrance the note gained visibility with Comme des Garçons Series 2 Red: Palisander, which paired it with Virginia cedar and spices.

Palisander Rosewood in modern perfumery

Since 2017 most other Dalbergia species have also been controlled under CITES Appendix II, so the note is always a fantasy wood in modern perfumes. It appears mainly in niche fragrances seeking a polished, luxurious timber effect.

How Palisander Rosewood wears and what it pairs with

It is a heart-to-base note that adds richness and warmth. It pairs well with saffron, myrrh, pepper, cedar, rose, leather, amber and oud.

Fragrances featuring Palisander Rosewood

• Comme des Garçons Series 2 Red: Palisander