Shiso

Shiso in perfume is a green, herbal note from the leaves of Perilla frutescens, a mint-family herb widely used in Japanese cuisine. It smells fresh, spicy and slightly citrusy, with hints of mint, basil and cumin, and brings an unusual, savoury-green brightness to fresh and aromatic fragrances.

What does Shiso smell like?

Shiso smells like a cross between basil, mint and anise, with a spicy, slightly cumin-like warmth and a bright citrus note. The leaves are sharp and aromatic when crushed, and the essential oil, dominated by perillaldehyde, is intensely green and pungent. Compared with basil, shiso is more savoury and spicy; compared with mint, it is less cooling and more complex. Red and green shiso varieties differ slightly, with green shiso usually brighter and more herbal.

Where Shiso comes from

Shiso is native to East Asia and is widely grown in Japan, Korea and China. For perfumery, the leaves are steam distilled to produce perilla leaf oil, whose main component is perillaldehyde.

  • Also known as: Perilla, Japanese basil, beefsteak plant, Perilla frutescens
  • Fragrance family: Aromatic / green
  • Type: Natural
  • Main origins: Japan, Korea, China
  • How it's obtained: Steam distillation of the leaves
  • Key aroma molecules: Perillaldehyde, limonene

Shiso in perfume history

Shiso has long been used in East Asian cooking, as a garnish, in pickles and to colour umeboshi (pickled plums). It entered perfumery much later, as Western perfumers began exploring Japanese botanicals such as yuzu and hinoki in the late 20th and early 21st centuries.

Shiso in modern perfumery

Shiso is a niche note, appearing in fresh aromatic fragrances, Japanese-inspired scents and some tea and citrus colognes. Perfumers use it to add a green, savoury twist that sets a fragrance apart from more familiar herbal notes.

How Shiso wears and what it pairs with

Shiso is a top note, bright and fleeting. It pairs with yuzu, green tea, ginger, cucumber, hinoki, vetiver, citrus and musk.