Tarragon is an aromatic herb note distilled from Artemisia dracunculus, a perennial related to wormwood. It smells green, sweet and distinctly anise-like, with a fresh, slightly peppery edge, and perfumers use it to add a bright, liquorice-tinged lift to fresh and aromatic compositions.

What does Tarragon smell like?

Tarragon smells like a cross between fresh cut herbs and aniseed. The dominant impression comes from methyl chavicol (estragole), which gives a sweet, anisic, faintly basil-like tone; ocimene adds a green, slightly floral freshness. The result is lighter and more herbaceous than star anise and less spicy than fennel. French tarragon, the culinary variety, is the fragrant type; Russian tarragon has much less aroma and is not used for oil. In a finished perfume tarragon tends to read as a sharp green sparkle with a sweet liquorice echo.

Where Tarragon comes from

French tarragon is propagated from cuttings because it rarely sets seed. The leafy herb is harvested and steam-distilled into a pale oil known in the trade as estragon oil.

• Also known as: Estragon, French tarragon, Dragon herb
• Fragrance family: Aromatic
• Type: Natural
• Main origins: France and other parts of Europe; also grown in North America
• How it's obtained: Steam distillation of the leafy herb
• Key aroma molecules: Methyl chavicol (estragole), ocimene, limonene

Tarragon in perfume history

The species name dracunculus means little dragon, and the French name estragon comes from the same idea, perhaps because of its coiled roots or an old belief that it treated snakebites. Tarragon has a strong culinary heritage but a modest role in perfume history, appearing mainly as a supporting herbal accent in fougères and colognes from the twentieth century onwards.

Tarragon in modern perfumery

Today tarragon is used as a small touch in fresh masculine and unisex scents, in herbal colognes and in green accords where a hint of anise helps modernise lavender or citrus. Because estragole is restricted in cosmetics, perfumers watch dosage closely and sometimes rebuild the effect with anethole and green synthetics.

How Tarragon wears and what it pairs with

Tarragon is a top note with a fairly short life, most noticeable in the first few minutes. It works as a brightener, adding a green-sweet twist. Classic pairings include lavender, basil, bergamot, lemon, fennel, coriander, galbanum and vetiver.

Safety and regulation

Tarragon oil contains high levels of estragole, which is restricted under IFRA Standards, and it can also contain methyl eugenol, which IFRA limits as well; perfumers work within these limits when using it.