Verbena, in perfumery, means lemon verbena: a bright, lemony herbal note from the leaves of Aloysia citrodora, a South American shrub. It belongs to the citrus and aromatic families and smells sharp, green and zesty, like crushed lemon leaves with a soft, sweet floral undertone.

What does Verbena smell like?

Fresh lemon verbena leaves smell intensely of lemon peel and lemongrass, but softer and greener, with a slightly sweet, floral lift. Compared with lemon itself, it is more herbal and less juicy; compared with lemongrass, it is finer and less grassy; and it is cleaner than litsea. In perfumes, the note is usually reconstructed from citral and other citrus materials, so its sharpness and sweetness vary. Perfumes listing simply verbena almost always mean lemon verbena: the true vervain (Verbena officinalis) is almost scentless and plays no real role in perfumery despite sharing the name.

Where Verbena comes from

The plant is native to Argentina, Chile and neighbouring regions and was brought to Europe in the 17th century. It is now grown in France, Morocco and other warm areas, where the leaves are harvested for herbal tea, flavourings and small amounts of extract. Perfumers once used verbena essential oil distilled from the leaves, until it was prohibited in fragrance.

• Also known as: Lemon verbena, verveine, Lippia citriodora
• Fragrance family: Citrus / Aromatic
• Type: Natural and synthetic
• Main origins: Morocco, France, South America
• How it's obtained: Leaves are solvent-extracted for absolute; the essential oil is prohibited in fragrance
• Key aroma molecules: Citral (geranial and neral), limonene, citronellol

Verbena in perfume history

Lemon verbena was a favourite garden plant of the Victorians and a popular scent for colognes and toilet waters in the 19th and early 20th centuries. Verbena waters were popular in France and Britain, and "verveine" became a classic cologne theme, still associated with Provençal gardens and simple, fresh eaux de toilette. It remains a classic French herbal tea.

Verbena in modern perfumery

Because the essential oil is prohibited in fragrance, lemon verbena notes are now built mainly from citral-based accords with limonene and floral materials, sometimes with a small amount of absolute. It is used in fresh colognes, summery unisex scents, summer editions and bath lines, and perfumers often boost it with basil, mint or other herbs for greater complexity.

How Verbena wears and what it pairs with

It is a top note with a quick, bright opening that fades within an hour or two. It pairs with bergamot, lemon, basil, mint, ginger, neroli, petitgrain, vetiver and white musk.

Safety and regulation

IFRA prohibits verbena essential oil in fragrance because of skin sensitisation and phototoxicity, and restricts the absolute. Citral, limonene and citronellol are EU-declarable allergens above labelling thresholds.