Vetiver is an earthy, woody note distilled from the roots of Chrysopogon zizanioides, a tall tropical grass native to India. Classed in the woody family, it smells dry, smoky and rooty, with green, nutty and slightly grapefruit-like facets, and it is one of the most important base materials in perfumery.

What does Vetiver smell like?

Vetiver smells like damp earth, dried grass and smoke all at once. The top has a green, sometimes slightly bitter, citrus-peel sharpness; the heart is woody and rooty, often compared to hazelnut shell or roasted grain; the base is deep, dry and faintly sweet. Unlike cedar, which is clean and straight, vetiver has texture and a slightly damp, mineral feel. Origin changes the style: Haitian oil is lighter and greener, Java oil smokier and more leathery, Bourbon oil from Réunion rounder and sweeter. Perfumers also use vetiveryl acetate, a smoother, cleaner derivative made from the oil.

Where Vetiver comes from

The grass is grown mainly for its dense, deep roots, which are dug up, washed, dried and distilled over many hours to yield a thick, amber-brown oil. It is also planted worldwide to prevent soil erosion.

• Also known as: Khus, khus khus, vetyver
• Fragrance family: Woody (earthy)
• Type: Natural (plus derivatives such as vetiveryl acetate)
• Main origins: Haiti, Indonesia (Java), India, Réunion, Madagascar, China
• How it's obtained: Steam distillation of dried roots
• Key aroma molecules: Khusimol, α-vetivone, β-vetivone

Vetiver in perfume history

The name comes from the Tamil vettiveru, a dug-up root, and in India khus roots have long been woven into mats and screens that release a cool scent when wetted. Vetiver featured in early twentieth-century perfumes such as Chanel No. 5 (1921), but the note truly came into its own with the post-war men's vetivers, including Carven Vetiver (1957) and Guerlain Vetiver (1959), created by Jean-Paul Guerlain.

Vetiver in modern perfumery

Vetiver is used in a very large share of fine fragrances, often invisibly as a fixative. Haiti supplies a large part of world production, which gives the material a direct link to smallholder livelihoods and makes supply sensitive to political and climate disruption. Fair-trade and traceability programmes have grown around it.

How Vetiver wears and what it pairs with

Vetiver is a base note with long staying power, though its green top is often noticeable early. It pairs well with grapefruit, bergamot, cedar, iris, patchouli, tobacco, leather and incense.

Fragrances featuring Vetiver

• Carven Vetiver (1957)
• Guerlain Vetiver (1959)
• Lalique Encre Noire (2006)
• Hermès Terre d'Hermès (2006)