Wasabi in perfume is a fresh, green and sharply spicy accord inspired by the Japanese condiment made from the grated stem of Eutrema japonicum. It sits in the aromatic spicy family and smells green, peppery and nose-tingling, with a clean, watery bite that perfumers use to wake up citrus, aquatic and green compositions.

What does Wasabi smell like?

Freshly grated wasabi has a green, vegetal smell with a sweet, almost herbal undertone and a sharp rush that goes straight up the nose. In perfume, the note keeps the sensation of that rush without the tears: it is cool, crisp and slightly mustard-like, closer to green pepper and cress than to the warm heat of chilli or black pepper. It is also fresher and less biting than the fiery Sichuan Pepper note, and greener than Ginger.

How perfumers create Wasabi

The pungency of real wasabi comes from allyl isothiocyanate, which forms when the plant's cells are broken during grating. It is extremely volatile, which is why wasabi burns the nose rather than the tongue, but it is also a strong irritant and is not a practical perfume material. Perfumers instead suggest wasabi with a mix of cold spices such as pink pepper, ginger and cardamom, green and leafy materials, crisp citrus such as yuzu or lime, and watery notes that echo its fresh, clean character.

• Also known as: Japanese horseradish, wasabi accord, Eutrema japonicum
• Fragrance family: Aromatic spicy, green
• Type: Accord (created by the perfumer)
• Key aroma molecules: Allyl isothiocyanate (in the real plant, not used in perfume); accords rely on green and spicy materials

Wasabi in perfume history

Wasabi grows wild along mountain stream beds in Japan and has been recorded there since the eighth century. It is notoriously hard to cultivate, needing cool, shaded, humid conditions, so most wasabi served abroad is actually coloured horseradish and mustard. Its fame outside Japan grew with sushi from around 1980, and it arrived in perfumery only much later, as a novelty note in fresh and Japanese-inspired fragrances.

Wasabi in modern perfumery

Wasabi is used mostly as an accent: a dash of green spice in men's fresh scents, yuzu colognes and niche compositions built around Japanese ingredients such as hinoki and shiso. It gives brightness without sweetness.

How Wasabi wears and what it pairs with

Wasabi is a top note that makes an energetic, short-lived first impression before handing over to greens and woods. It pairs with yuzu, lime, ginger, shiso, green tea, cucumber, vetiver and hinoki wood.