Ylang-Ylang is a floral note distilled from the star-shaped yellow flowers of the ylang-ylang tree (Cananga odorata), a tropical species native to Southeast Asia and grown commercially in the Indian Ocean. It smells rich, sweet and creamy, with a custard-like, banana and jasmine facet and a slightly spicy, medicinal edge.

What does Ylang-Ylang smell like?

Ylang-ylang has an unusually broad character. The top of the oil is bright, fruity and floral, with methyl benzoate and p-cresyl methyl ether giving a heady, almost solvent-like sparkle. The heart is creamy and jasmine-like, and the drydown is soft, woody and sweet, with a spicy clove nuance. It is less indolic than jasmine and more custardy than tuberose. The sister oil, cananga, from a related variety grown in Java, is rougher, woodier and more leathery.

Where Ylang-Ylang comes from

Ylang-ylang oil is steam-distilled from freshly picked flowers, and the process is uniquely fractionated: distillers collect successive portions over many hours, sold as Extra, First, Second and Third grades. Extra is the most refined and floral; later fractions are heavier and woodier. A Complete oil contains the whole distillation. The Comoros, Mayotte and Madagascar dominate world production.

• Also known as: Ylang ylang, Ilang-ilang, Perfume tree
• Fragrance family: Floral (white floral)
• Type: Natural
• Main origins: Comoros, Madagascar (Nosy Be), Mayotte; cananga from Indonesia
• How it's obtained: Fractional steam distillation; also solvent extraction to absolute
• Key aroma molecules: Linalool, germacrene D, benzyl acetate, p-cresyl methyl ether, methyl benzoate, benzyl benzoate

Ylang-Ylang in perfume history

The tree's name comes from the Philippines, where it was traditionally prized, and in the nineteenth century distillers in Manila first produced the oil for export to Europe. It was used in Macassar oil, a popular Victorian hair dressing. French planters later established the crop in Réunion, the Comoros and Madagascar. Ylang-ylang became a key ingredient in many twentieth-century florals, including Chanel No. 5 (1921).

Ylang-Ylang in modern perfumery

Ylang-ylang remains an essential floral workhorse, used from mass fragrance to niche. Sustainability is a concern: distillation in the Comoros relies heavily on firewood, and brands now support reforestation and more efficient stills.

How Ylang-Ylang wears and what it pairs with

Ylang-ylang is a heart note that bridges top and base, adding radiance early and creaminess later. It pairs with jasmine, tuberose, vanilla, sandalwood, bergamot, patchouli, vetiver and orange blossom.

Fragrances featuring Ylang-Ylang

• Chanel No. 5 (1921)
• Guerlain Samsara (1989)

Safety and regulation

Ylang-ylang extracts are restricted by IFRA because of their potential to cause skin sensitisation, and they contain EU-declarable allergens such as linalool, geraniol, benzyl benzoate, isoeugenol and farnesol.